Zimbabweans

We left at 7AM this morning to drive to a homestead near Hwange Town to experience a day in the life of a homesteader. Clyde, the trip manager, had an assignment for us. For the first task, he gave us each $5 out of the allotted budget from the trip expenses and a short list of grocery items we needed to find and purchase. The second task was to find out what the Namibian name he gave each of us means in English. Mine was Nomqhele (you click on the “q”).

These tasks are designed for the purpose of getting us to interact with the local people. We stopped at the village stores and began our search. The two items Chris and I were assigned to buy were impuphu and itshukela, which turned out to be very easy to find: sugar and maize. Our new friends from South Carolina were assigned mopani worms, only sold at one shop. The storekeepers don’t work on Fridays because that’s the day they collect trash, so they were unsuccessful.

On the name front, I got two different answers to what it means. One woman said it means one with no worries. The homestead leader told me it means a crown. It turns out that the crown answer was actuate. Clyde said it also means “queen.” Yes.

All of these purchases would be gifts to give to homesteaders for hosting us. We pounded millet, held baby goats, stirred a pot of tomatoes and mopani worms, and whisked polenta. The village elder’s wife, Mrs. Menches, proudly showed us her kitchen, which had been built using a termite mound. She had shelves carved into the wall and a neat little spot for all of her tools and supplies.

We gathered in a common hut with the villagers to introduce ourselves and share in the meal of polenta, sautéed cowpea greens, and mopani worms. I cleaned my plate. Mrs. Menches had Maxine help her serve the food; she latched onto her because, as she kept telling us, she has four sons and no daughters. Maxine and Edwin both tried the worms so as not to offend the villagers. They were like salty, slightly fibrous shrimp and packed with protein.

After leaving the groceries and other random gifts we had brought from home, we said our goodbyes and headed to a school.

We visited Lukosi Secondary School, which is supported by the Grand Circle Foundation, funded by the company we are traveling with (a portion of their profits go to this fund). We also brought donations from home, like calculators, soccer balls, and other school supplies.

After the principal met with us and gave us a brief overview of the school’s challenges and recent initiatives, we went into a classroom to talk with the students. I sat down with a curious, bubbly and funny group of 16-year-old girls: Kimberly, Ella, Bernadette, Cherish, and Susan. We started off a little awkwardly as Kimberly asked me scripted questions, but we were soon laughing and joking around. They spied Maxine and Edwin talking to a group of boys at the table behind us and peppered me with questions about them, especially Maxine.

“Would you like me to introduce you to her?”

“Oh, yes!” I didn’t want to steal both of them from the boys, so I called just Maxine over. Soon after, the principal directed the students to show us around their garden. I was escorted by a boy named Eric, and Maxine and girls fluttered around like a bevy of birds. As we were leaving, they asked her for her phone number. As she began to the tell them, the principal walked near and they straightened up and shushed her. Once the coast was clear, Maxine finished giving them her digits. They also said they would look for her on TikTok. We hugged and waved goodbye as Clyde was finally able to usher us all back toward the van. Nobody wanted to leave.

This was our last day in Zimbabwe here at Kashawe. Tomorrow it’s on to Lufupa River Camp at Kafue National Park in Zambia. Chris and I stayed up later tonight, sitting around the fire with Parker, a fellow traveler; Clyde, our trip manager; and Terence, Charles, and Victor, who work here at the camp.

It’s time to get some shut eye. I just heard a lion roar, no lie. This is the trip of a lifetime.

Hwange Day 2

This place is amazing. It’s like being at a luxury sleep-away camp with an endless array of breathtaking sights.

The camp itself is beautiful. A partially tented pavilion serves as the central meeting place, complete with a gleaming wooden dining table that seats about 20, along with a bar, refrigerator, and several couches and chairs in a lounge area. A fire pit sits just outside the pavilion, about 10 steps from a bathroom with running water.

Nine cabins dot the path heading out of the pavilion, tucked in the woods overlooking the valley, at the bottom of which one particular tree seems to serve as a daily afternoon napping spot for a lone giraffe.

Our cabin has two single beds pushed together, two wooden bedside tables, a wardrobe, and a full bathroom with solar-heated water. Each evening a hot water bottle greets us in our beds when we return from dinner. They call them “bush babies.” I love my bush baby on these chilly nights.

The best part about the cabin is the front porch with two wicker chairs overlooking the valley. I haven’t had much chance to use it yet, but I’m hoping I’ll have a little time tomorrow.

So, today. What a day. We got a wake-up call from one of our guides, Albert. We walked up to each cabin door and called, “wakey, wakey,” to which we responded, “Good morning.” We dressed in layers of clothing and packed our buffs, sun hats, binoculars, cameras, and water bottles and headed to the buffet breakfast.

By 7:15, our group of 13 had boarded the jeeps, and off we went on safari. Albert is full of knowledge and pointed out various flora and fauna.

This is a birder’s paradise. We saw the gorgeous green, yellow, orange and black little bee eater again, a group of them bathing in the dust in the road, fluttering and burrowing their little bellies and heads in the dirt. Another stunning beauty we saw was the lilac-breasted roller. Among others: guinea fowl, red-billed hornbill (which they call the flying chili pepper), white browed sparrow weaver, tawny eagle and more.

We saw elephants, wart hogs, giraffes, impalas, mongooses, crocodiles, hippos, and zebras, plus very cool vegetation like baobob, mopani, and acacia.

After the morning adventure, we returned to camp for lunch and siesta time, then headed back out for a sundown drive. We got to watch baboons grooming each other and a young one try play with a mongoose. We were heading down a stretch of road to meet the others for a drink and to watch the sunset, when right in the middle of the road stood a lioness. When she saw us, she simply lay down behind a bush and yawned. Then we noticed her four companions, all female and all dozing comfortably, bellies up and a few paws in the air. Albert radioed the other other jeep, and they rushed over. We all stared and took pictures for about 15 minutes.

While we were watching the sun go down, Albert spotted fresh lion tracks and lion cub tracks. He said we’d be on the lookout for more lions on our (dark) drive back to camp. Well. We didn’t see the mama and baby, but sitting just off the road was a male lion and same lionesses from before. At one point, I was no more that 10 feet from this majestic, deadly creature. Albert told us to minimize movement. We complied. I will never forget looking into his eyes. I wonder what he thought of us, and I’m grateful he didn’t appear to think much of us. I could’ve stared at him forever, but I was a little relieved when we slowly rolled past him and finished our drive back to camp where a hot meal awaited us.

Hwange Day 1

We travelled by plane, van, and Jeep to Kashawe Camp inside Zimbabwe’s largest park, Hwange (pronounced wang-eee). This park is roughly the size of New Jersey.

We rode in the van with the group of people we will be spend these nearly three weeks with: a couple from San Francisco with her cousin and their 24-year-old son, a mother and her two adult daughters from North and South Carolina, and us: the four of us plus Chris’s parents.

I’m so tired because I had lousy sleep in the comfortable hotel last night (go figure), so here’s a quick rundown of the sights we’ve seen on our journey here:

A tiny village of thatched-roofed huts with one water pump

A coal mine

Red billed hornbill

Guinea fowl

Roxk irax

Tree squirrel

Warthog

Impala

Baobab tree

Troop or congress of baboons

Double breasted sand grouse

White-bunted bee eatet

Elephants!!

Dwarf mongoose

Night night.

Larger than Life

We had a driver take us around Johannesburg today. We saw the stately home where Nelson Mandela lived while he was president and married to his third wife, the modest home he lived in with his famous second wife, Winnie (anti-apartheid activist), and the law office he worked out of with O.R. Tambo.

Images of Mandela are scrambled in my head between the actual man and Morgan Freeman. I think I’ve seen Invictus one too many times.

I have a lot to learn about Johannesburg but I kept seeing parallels between its history and ours: their official apartheid and our racial segregation and Jim Crow, white flight from Johannesburg after apartheid ended and the same in our nations’ cities during the civil rights movement.

We got a slice of many different areas of Johannesburg today, as Patrick drove us up and down the rolling hills of the upper class neighborhood, where gated homes sat largely obscured on wide, jacaranda-lined streets; squeezed through downtown trash-littered streets and into a shop filled with dried animals, herbs, and drums traditional doctors use to ward off sickness; around the historic neighborhood of Soweto, where the Blacks settled when the government blamed them for the plague and forced them out of Johannesburg in the 1930’s.

One figure loomed large throughout every stop we made: the late, great Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela, lovingly referred to as “Tata” by his people, which is Xhosa for father.

Warm Welcome

Once the plane landed in Johannesburg, we were through customs and had our checked bags within 20 minutes.

We were greeted by a rep from Overseas Adventure Travel, the company we’ll be traveling with in a few days. We’re here a day early, and the man was meeting other tourists, but he got us someone to get us on the shuttle to our hotel.

We had a delicious buffet dinner here at the hotel, which included fresh beets, beans, root vegetables, noodle stir fry, dessert, and South African wine (enjoyed also by 18-year-old Edwin, who was darn sure he could drink legally here).

We’ve booked a tour of the city tomorrow, which includes Nelson Mandela’s home and historic Soweto.

Now for some sleep I missed on the 14.5 hour plane ride.

Journey to Jo’burg

We are in our seats and comfortable, waiting for this big bird to take off. Chris’s mom got us premium plus seats on United, which is probably the nicest seat I’ve ever had on an airplane. Wait. There was that one time Chris and I got bumped to first class on a flight to Florida, but this is a 14.5 hour flight, and plenty of leg room and a big seat will make all the difference in the world. Plus, they left a nice little goody bag on my seat, with an eye mask, lip balm, socks, toothbrush and toothpaste (all of which I brought myself, but how nice).

We were proactive regarding likely summer late-afternoon thunderstorms, so we switched our flight to 3:00 PM from 5:45 out of National for a more generous layover in Newark. Then the alerts from United started coming in last night. To make a long and boring story short, we opted to rent a car and drive to Newark.

We faced very little traffic and even had time for a leisurely dinner at the airport before boarding and settling into our seats. Let’s get this journey started.