Day: June 29, 2025

Aberystwyth is a faded grand dame. The waterfront used to be the place to go but lost its elegance and status after the world wars. A long row of Victorian row houses facing the sea look beautiful from a distance. Up close, many are empty, windows opaque with decades of sea spray, sea gulls picking through trash out front.

And yet, I can’t look away. I imagine a dignified old lady in a frayed party dress sitting at one of the bay windows, gazing at the sea as she waits for a suitor who will never call to take her to a ball that will never take place. How maudlin!

Today we left beautiful St. Davids. Our first stop was to see the Neolithic burial site called Pentre Ifan, which has the same kind of stones as Stonehenge. Getting there put me a little on edge because we had to get back on those narrow roads that can only fit one car at a time. We went around a few blind curves where you just hold your breath, cross your fingers, and hope nobody is coming from the other direction.

Our next stop was in Cardigan. Today is Maxine’s 18th birthday, and she was hoping to do some shopping, but most of the shops are closed since it’s Sunday. We also stopped in the smaller seaside town of Aberaeron, where we came across a sweet kitty cat.

We arrived in the town of Aberystwyth this afternoon, where we’ll eat at Little Italy (birthday girl’s choice), and then drive the rest of the way tomorrow for our four-night stay in Caernarfon.